Monroe County was created in 3 Jul 1823 and was formed from Saint Johns County. The County was named after James Monroe, the fifth president of the United States. The County Seat is Key West . See also County History for more historical details.
Counties adjacent to Monroe County are Collier County (north), Miami-Dade County (northeast).
Monroe County Cities and Towns include Key Colony Beach, Key West, Layton, Marathon. Villages Include Islamorada. CDPs Include Big Coppitt Key, Big Pine Key, Cudjoe Key, Duck Key, Key Largo, North Key Largo, Stock Island, Tavernier. Communities Include Bay Point, Flamingo, Key Haven, Perky
Researchers often overlook the importance of court records, probate records, and land records as a source of family history information.
PLEASE READ FIRST!!!! Please call the clerk's department to confirm hours, mailing address, fees and other specifics before visiting or requesting information because of sometimes changing contact information.
The Official County website is located at http://www.co.monroe.fl.us. NOTE: The record dates below are from the earliest date to present time. See also Courthouse History
Monroe County Clerk of the Circuit Court / County Clerk has Marriage Records from 1826, Land Records from 1826, Probate Records from 1888 and Court Records from 1826 and is located at 500 Whitehead St., Key West, Florida 33040; 305-292-3550
The Clerk of the Circuit Court is also the County Clerk. His office is located in the County Courthouse. The office of the Clerk is created in Article V and Article VIII of the Florida Constitution. The Clerk is an officer of the court of justice whose responsibilities are mandated by the Constitution as well as state and local laws. Under a 1973 reorganization of the judicial system, the clerk of courts in each county was made, and remains, custodian of all records of all predecessor courts, whether justice of the peace, city, county, probate, civil, or criminal.
You may also search the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) which covers Florida and surrounding states. Many pioneers and settelers bought land from the government instead of individuals.
Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Court Records. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Court Records by clicking the link below:
Birth, marriage, and death records are connected with central life events. They are prime sources for genealogical information.
Office of Vital Statistics, Dept of Health, P.O. Box 210, 1217 Pearl Street, Jacksonville, FL 32231-0042; (904) 359-6900 Ext. 1029, Fax: (904) 359-6993.
Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Vital Records. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Vital Records by clicking the link below:
Few, if any, records reveal as many details about individuals and families as do government census records. Substitute records can be used when the official census is unavailable
Countywide Records: Federal Population Schedules that exist for Monroe County, Florida are 1830, 1840, 1850 ,1860 ,1870, 1880, 1890 (fragment, see below), 1900, 1910, 1920 and 1930. Other Federal Schedules to look at when researching your Family Tree in Monroe County, Florida are Industry and Agriculture Schedules availible for the years 1850, 1860, 1870 and 1880. Slave Schedules exist for 1850 & 1860. The Mortality Schedules for the years 1850, 1860, 1870 and 1880. There are free downloadable and printable Census forms to help with your research. These include U.S. Census Extraction Forms and U.K. Census Extraction Forms.
Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Census Records. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Census Records by clicking the link below:
Maps are an excellent source for beginning your research, because they provide much useful information at a glance. Many historic maps show individual buildings and are especially useful because they also record owners' names and features in the surrounding community. More detailed maps reveal property acreage and estate names. By examining a series of maps, you will be able to date changes in your property over time.
Genealogy Atlas has images of old American atlases during the years 1795, 1814, 1822, 1823, 1836, 1838, 1845, 1856, 1866, 1879 and 1897 for Ohio and other states.
You can view rotating animated maps for Florida showing all the county boundaries for each census year overlayed with past and present maps so you can see the changes in county boundaries. You can view a list of maps for other states at Census Maps
You can view rotating animated maps for Florida showing all the county boundary changes for each year overlayed with past and present maps so you can see the changes in county boundaries. The Florida Department of Transportation has county maps the show the locations of churches, cemeteries, roads, ect... free for viewing or download here
Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Maps. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Maps by clicking the link below:
Military and civil service records provide unique facts and insights into the lives of men and women who have served their country at home and abroad.
The uses and value of military records in genealogical research for ancestors who were veterans are obvious, but military records can also be important to re-searchers whose direct ancestors were not soldiers in any war. The fathers, grandfathers, brothers, and other close relatives of an ancestor may have served in a war, and their service or pension records could contain information that will assist in further identifying the family of primary interest. Due to the amount of genealogical information contained in some military pension files, they should never be overlooked during the research process. Those records not containing specific genealogical information are of historic value and should be included in any overall research design.
Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Military Records. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Military Records by clicking the link below:
Early tax rolls, especially between census years, can be a gold mine for the fortunate researcher. Most existing rolls can be found in the counties of origin, but the Flordia State Archives also has some bound volumes sent to the state comptroller during the period 1829-81. Normal information includes the taxpayer's name, land ownership, number of white males (above taxable age, 21) and slaves, horses, wagons, and other taxable items of personal property such as jewelry, watches, musical instruments, and carriages. Many of the counties' records in the series are incomplete, but there are some in the Florida State Archives that the originating counties no longer have. This valuable resource is not indexed. It must be searched in the county, at the Florida State Archives, or both.
Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Tax Records. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Tax Records by clicking the link below:
The Repositories in this section are Archives, Libraries, Museums, Genealogical and Historical Societies. Many County Historical and Genealogical Societies publish magazines and/or news letters on a monthly, quarterly, bi-annual or annual basis. Contacting the local societies should not be over looked. State Archives and Societies are usually much larger and better organized with much larger archived materials than their smaller county cousins but they can be more generalized and over look the smaller details that local societies tend to have. Libraries can also be a good place to look for local information. Some libraries have a genealogy section and may have some resources that are not located at archives or societies. Also, take a special look at any museums in the area. They sometimes have photos and items from years gone by as well as information of a genealogical interest. All these places are vitally important to the family genealogist and must not be passed over.
Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Genealogical Addresses. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Genealogical Addresses by clicking the link below:
Obituaries can vary in the amount of information they contain, but many of them are genealogical goldmines, including information such as names, dates, places of birth and death, marriage information, and family relationships.
There are many churches and cemeteries in Monroe County. Some transcriptions are online. A great site is the Monroe County Tombstone Transcription Project.
As in most former frontier societies, early Florida church records are hit-and-miss, but they can be valuable when located. The Roman Catholic faith accompanied the earliest Spanish settlers to Florida, and by 1822 the Baptists, Methodists, Episcopalians, and Presbyterians were also active in the new territory. By 1845 the Baptists had split into the Missionary and Primitive varieties (probably totaling more than 5,000 Florida members), and all of the above groups had become more or less well organized Methodists had two churches in Fernandina as early as 1822 (under the South Carolina Conference) and more than 10,000 members by statehood.
Cemetery records are held by most Florida libraries and archives. One important compiled source is the WPA Register of Deceased Veterans Buried in Florida, which covers fifty-one of the sixty-seven counties. Access to the massive amount of cemetery information scattered throughout the state is being facilitated by a continuing cemetery location project of the Florida State Genealogical Society.
Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Cemetery & Church Records. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Cemetery & Church Records by clicking the link below:
The use of published genealogies, electronic files containing genealogical lineage, and other compiled sources can be of tremendous value to a researcher.
When view family trees online or not, be sure to only take the info at face value and always follow up with your own sources or verify the ones they provide. Below is a list of online resources for Monroe County Family Trees, web forums and other family type information. Email us with websites containing Monroe County Family Trees, web forums and other family type information by clicking the link below:
The history of Monroe County is all of the web pages on this site, data which was omitted due to space, data which is yet to be uncovered and that which was never recorded. Far more events occurred that are not recorded than are recorded. Some events on this page are repeats from other pages. Much will be similar to the history of Key West as it has been the county seat, developed early activities that recorded events and was the most populated area until recently. I will spend a little time portraying the big picture.
Up until about 1821 the history of Florida, Monroe County and Key West was more or less the same. All began under water, grew as land masses, were inhabited by aborigines and were visited by early Europeans. Even after 1821, Key West totally dominated the recorded history except for about a ten-year period when Indian Key became prominent. This is true as we write in the sense that the county seat is still there and it is a concentrated tourist center. However, the island is almost built out and the other keys are increasing in population. Four other incorporated cities have chartered, but they are considerably smaller in population. Layton has a population of about 250, Key Colony Beach about 1,100, Islamorada about 8,000, Marathon 12,000 compared to Key West of about 25,000. However, all are under a Rate-Of-Growth-Ordinance (ROGO).
Without being exact, on nautical charts Monroe County contains about 800 islands generally thought of as 'the Keys', of which about 40 are occupied by a significant number of people. There are many islands in the Everglades and Ten Thousand Islands that are not included. Should these be, there would be over 10,000. It has been some time since I have made a detailed study, but generally the Keys portion of Monroe County is divided into four sections of population: the Upper Keys (7 islands), the Middle Keys (12 islands), the Lower Keys (20 islands) and Key West (part of the City of Key West is on its neighbor Stock Island).
Sooner or later a discussion will take place why the word "Key" instead of "island." We see the Spanish use of "cayo" instead of the usual Spanish word "isla" or "islet." Many believe the Spanish adapted the word "cayo" from the Taino Indians of Hispanola and Cuba referring to refer to small islands. At least in the New World, they appear to use "cayo" and "cayuelo" for a very small island. The English used "Cay" or "Kay" such as Cay Sal Banks. Cay is pronounced as the letter "K." English maps of the Keys made just prior to the Revolutionary War of 1776 used the word "Key." A Colonial American court record of the "Libel of Dennis and Allen vs the snow St. Fermin alias Britanis" in 1744 used the word "Keys" referring to the Florida Keys. See the Admiralty Papers, Vol. 2, 1743 -1744.
There are presently five incorporated communities in Monroe County: Key West (1828), Key Colony Beach (1955), Layton (1963), Islamorada (1998) and Marathon (2000). Fort Myers incorporated in 1885, but became a part of Lee County when it was created in 1887. The City of North Key Largo Beach incorporated in 1955, but was deactivated in the 1980s. Monroe County's shorted lived city was the City of Stock Island. Freeholders approved incorporation in July 1963 only to have Circuit Judge Aquilino Lopez Jr. overturn the election effective March 26, 1964.
Depending on whether bay bottom is counted or not, present day Monroe County has about 1,144,800 acres. The inhabited or partially inhabited 40 islands are about 65,500 acres which is about 5.3 percent of the total. Much of this 65,500 acres is also owned by the federal or state governments and by far most is for conservation purposes.
About 34 percent of the county's vacant land is potentially available for development - 210,000 acres. About 10 percent of this already divided into some 15,000 vacant lots. These figures vary according to different sources. I have heard that there are at least 20,000 vacant platted lots. Since most of the terrestrial part of Monroe County is on the mainland of Florida and is almost entirely within the Everglades National Park and the Big Cypress National Preserve. I estimate a good guess is that about 12 percent of the Keys is for residential purposes. Cities like Key West and Key Colony Beach would be higher, probably like 60 to 70 percent. I am guessing but I believe if taken in their entirety, only about 5 percent would be commercial. Then for Key West about 25 percent used to be reserved for military use. As the military presence is decreasing, this percentage is also decreasing..
It is difficult to obtain exact figures but for this discussion, perfection is not really necessary; however, some idea is needed. Key Largo has about 22,000 acres. Big Pine Key follows with about 6,500 acres. Then it gets difficult as many islands are now connected, or near-by neighboring islands are considered as one. It almost depends on high or low tide. I believe Cudjoe is next with about 3,800 acres, Saddlebunch with about 3,700, Boca Chica with about 3,500, Sugarloaf with about 3,200 and Key West way down the list with about 2,600 acres. This does not include the part of the City of Key West that is on Stock Island which is itself about 1,800 acres.
Territory of Florida
For our historic times (1513 AD) the native Indians were the first settlers of what later was to be Monroe County and the Europeans were tourists for these first 300 odd years. The islands stood as silent as the martyrs for which they were first named by Ponce de Leon in 1513. The Keys were also there for those who sought refuge from being shipwrecked, needed water, fishermen, lumberers, salvagers, privateers, explorers, pirates; but no whites settled permanently until it became a United States territory. There are scattered references, but no specifics of New Englanders and Bahamians as permanent settlers before the early 1800s.
There is no primary documentation that any of the alleged pirates were ever based in Monroe County, in fact, that any ever set foot ashore on any of the Keys. There is little doubt that they cruised the off-shore waters, but probably people of every significant industry and country have passed the Florida Keys.
In the late 1700s, Florida's western border extended to the Mississippi River and northward to present day Natchez, Mississippi. In 1795, Spanish Florida dropped the boundary down to Florida's present northern limit, opened up the Mississippi River to international transportation and opened the port of New Orleans for transfer of goods. Louisiana was transferred to France in 1800 and to the US in 1803. The US pushed the Louisiana Purchase boundary eastward. Spain's hope for keeping Florida gradually diminished. In a treaty of cession with Spain in 1919, the US limited the west boundary of the Louisiana Purchase to the Texas Sabine River and assumed $5 million of Spanish debt to the US for Florida. On February 22, 1821, U. S. President James Monroe proclaimed the Adams-Onis treaty effective transferring ownership of Florida to the United States. 300 years of European control had ended. A new U. S. Territory had been born.
President Monroe appointed General Andrew Jackson as Florida's military Governor. One of the first acts of Governor Jackson was to divide Florida into two counties, Escambia and St. Johns. Later, Governor Duval further divided the counties and Monroe County was incorporated on July 3, 1823, becoming the sixth county of the Territory of Florida. Its only true settlement was Key West (county seat), however very small groups existed and were growing at Port Monroe, Indian Key, New River, Miamiya, Cape Florida and Port Charlotte. Monroe County in 1823 consisted of land now part of Dade (1836), Lee (1887), Charlotte (1921), Collier (1923), Broward (1915), Hendry (1923), and parts of Palm Beach (1909), Glades (1921) and Martin (1925) Counties. David Pinkham was Monroe County's first elected Territorial representative to the Florida Legislative Council. When Florida became a state in 1845, Monroe County sent William H. Wall to the Florida Senate and Richard Brantly to the Florida House.
Monroe County was a huge county extending to the south shore of Lake Okeechobee with few residents, that is residents who were actually considered residents. Almost certainly there were far more Native Americans than all others. Because of this extreme size it will be difficult to remain strictly chronological during this presentation; however, we will not stray very far before returning.
Key West - Key of Bones
While the Keys were in St. Johns County, John W. Simonton came down from New Jersey and purchased the island of Cayo Hueso (Key West) on January 19, 1822 from Juan Pablo Salas. Salas had acquired it as a Spanish Land Grant in 1815 for services rendered. John Simonton soon took on three partners: John Whitehead (New Jersey), John Fleeming (Mobile), and jointly, John Mountain and John Warner. The latter duo sold to Pardon Greene (Rhode Island). (See web page for Key West.)
When England took ownership of Florida in 1763, a dispute immediately arose as to the ownership of the Keys. England assumed they went with the mainland, but due to a vague treaty, Spain contested this. Spain argued the Keys were the 'Isles de Norte Havana' and not part of Florida. It is debatable whether Spain and England ever resolved this dilemma.
To absolutely establish US ownership of the Keys, the United States took physical possession of the island of Cayo Hueso. US Navy Lt. Matthew C. Perry sailed the Navy schooner Shark into port on March 25, 1822 and planted the U.S. flag. Lt. Perry named the island "Thompson Island" and the port "Port Rogers."
Through usage and later incorporation, the residents preferred the name Key West, the English substitute of Spanish Cayo Hueso. The Spanish word Hueso [Way-so] means bone in English. Most agree that the Spanish name came from human bones found on the island.
Piracy had been a problem in the West Indies' open waters and congress decided to protect US shipping. The task was given to the Navy. Partly on reports by Lt. Perry, the Navy on February 1, 1823, ordered Commodore David Porter to establish a naval depot in Key West to end piracy. Slave ships were included as an act of piracy.
Birth of Monroe County
Commodore Porter arrived in April 1823 and Monroe County was created on July 3, 1823. The City of Key West incorporated in 1828. By 1830, its population was 517. By 1829, 258 acres were mapped as a town with 64 blocks. In 1850 there were 2,645 residents and in 1890 there were 18,080. Key West grew as a maritime community and as the county seat.
In passing, 1828 was a pivotal year. The federal government established the "Superior Court of the Southern Judicial District of the Territory of Florida" in Key West as well as designated Key West as a Port of Entry. These along with the presence of the military were significant milestones. South Florida got its first newspapers when the Key West Register and the Commercial Advertiser began in January. The Key West Gazette followed in 1831, then the Enquirer in 1834.
The following from the United States "Enumeration's" provides an insight into the early growth of Monroe County:
YEAR WHITES FREE BLACKS SLAVES TOTAL
1830 368 83 66 517
1840 516 76 96 688
1850 2,088 126 431 2,645
1860 2,302 160 451 2,913
1870 4,631 1,026 --- 5,675
Now moving to other parts of Monroe County. Marathon began in historical times as Cayo de Vacas (many spelling variations) and also from a Spanish land grant of five islands given to Don Francisco Ferreira in 1814. On June 11, 1823, Ferreira sold Duck Key to a Solomon Snyder and on September 4, 1824, he sold Key Vaca to Isaac Cox for $3,000, which was $1,000 more than the selling price of Key West. Three years later, Cox sold Key Vaca to Charles Howe of later Indian Key fame for $1,500.
The 1830 Census showed Temple Pent's household consisted of one son and two daughters. They were probably Key Vaca's first permanent family. A US census from the Act of 1866 revealed a complete depopulation of Key Vaca for reasons yet to be determined. Everyone had moved away! The Pents had moved to Bamboo Key, the Russells to Matecumbe and others elsewhere.
In the Upper Keys, Silas Fletcher started a store on Indian Key to sell goods to passing seafarers in 1824. Jacob Housman acquired a claim of ownership to most of Indian Key by 1831. For a perspective, Indian Key is about 9 acres in size and Key West is about 2,600 acres.
The 1825 Federal Wrecking Act prescribed that all property in United States waters be taken to a US port of entry. Key West was designated a Port of Entry with an Admiralty Court in 1828. The nearest other Port of Entry was St. Augustine. This made Key West very powerful and a power struggle ensued. The following year, 1829 a US post office was opened. A public library will not open until 1859 and a public school in 1870.
Jacob Housman, recently of Staten Island and now a wrecker, did not get along well with the Key West wrecking courts, so he sought to establish a US Port of Entry on his island of Indian Key. He did not succeed; however, he upset the tranquility, as it was, of Monroe County.
Let's leave Indian Key momentarily with Jacob Housman's plight. A dichotomy arises in presenting Monroe County history. Most Monroe County histories simply omit the huge mainland portion - even the part now known as Dade and Broward Counties and especially Lee County. Present day Lee County (Fort Myers), Collier County (Naples) and Hendry County (LaBelle) Counties continued to be Monroe County until 1887.
Mainland Monroe County
Space does not provide for an in depth study of the southeast mainland; however something is warranted as it was part of Monroe County for 13 years. Conjecture has it that as Spain saw Florida slipping from her control she began giving it away as rewards to certain citizens. However, there is evidence that Spain tried to induce settlement at parts other than St. Augustine with possible hopes of keeping Florida.
On the southeast mainland there were six other recorded early Spanish Land Grants that survived the US Land Commissions after 1821. They were: Pedro Fornells in 1790 for 175 acres on "Key Biscayno"; Polly Lewis in 1805 for "640 acres South of River Miami"; James Hagen of 1810 for "640 acres, North Miami River"; Mrs. Hagen in 1810 for "640 acres, South Miami River, Cape Florida"; and Jonathan Lewis in 1813 for "640 acres near Cape Florida." The name 'Hagen' could have been 'Egan' or 'Eagan'. Mrs. Frankee Lewis also had an approved land grant in New River (Fort Lauderdale).
From this point there are three major avenues: 1) the exploits of Richard Fitzpatrick; 2) the 'coontie' industry; and 3) the Cape Florida Lighthouse.
Richard Fitzpatrick
Mr. Fitzpatrick was among the first civilians to arrive in Key West in 1822 being of the Charleston 'planter' ideology. He was immediately successful, was the only authorized wrecking auctioneer, owned a wrecking ship, and was involved in local and Territorial politics.
In the 1830s, from the aforementioned Spanish Land Grant owners Fitzpatrick purchased four square miles, two on each side of the Miami River; one square mile on New River (Fort Lauderdale) and a few other smaller holdings. He constructed buildings, brought in slaves and concentrated on every thing from sugar cane to livestock.
Monroe County is Divided
Monroe County had three voting precincts; New River, Indian Key and Key West. In 1836 Fitzpatrick was elected for the second time as the Monroe County Representative to the Florida Legislative Council. Upon coming-to-order, the Council elected him as Council President. Meanwhile, back on nine-acre Indian Key, Housman and 56 others had petitioned Florida for a separate county. This was a local bill, and with Fitzpatrick's position and support, it passed without a sound. Needless to say, Key West was dismayed. They had just lost one half the county and most of the stepping stones (the Middle and Upper Keys) to the mainland.
On February 4, 1836, the eastern part of former Monroe County east of Bahia Honda and north to Lake Okeechobee became Dade County with Indian Key as its county seat. Fitzpatrick became Dade County's representative from 1837 to 1841. After the Indian War ended in 1842, Fitzpatrick was financially hurting and sold his mainland holdings to his nephew, William English, formerly of Indian Key. Fitzpatrick moved to Texas and later he and English both went to the California Gold Rush.
Coontie' industry
Coontie was an arrowroot starch made from the Zamia integrifolia. Some argue that coontie was Monroe County's first industry as many on the mainland delved into its production. One of the better known was William Cooley. He arrived on New River in 1824 and built a large 'coontie' mill on the Lewis property (later rented from Fitzpatrick). Cooley was also a wrecker and while away on a wrecking trip the Seminoles attacked his home on January 6, 1836. (See web page 2 of the Seminoles) His wife, baby, son and daughter were killed and his slaves taken.
Cape Florida Lighthouse
The 1790 Fornells' land grant was sold to Mary Ann and William Davis. They sold three acres for the construction of the Cape Florida Lighthouse. John Dubose lit the lamps on December 17, 1825. The hurricane of 1835 failed to extinguish the light, but on January 6, 1836 the Seminoles were more successful. They waited until nightfall and set fire to the wooden door.
Assistant-keeper, John Thompson and his helper, Aaron Carter, attempted to fight them off to no avail. Thompson survived, but Carter was killed. The lighthouse was disabled until 1846.
Note that both Cooley and lighthouse attacks occurred in early 1836. On Indian Key, Jacob Housman formed Company B, 10th Florida Militia in January 1836 with himself as the captain. The next month all this area became Dade County. Indian Key, as a Dade County community, thrived until the 1840 massacre. On August 7, 1840, a group of the few remaining Seminoles attacked and burned all but one house.
Housman returned to Key West where he died the following year. Monroe County regained ownership in 1866 and the 1870 census revealed 46 residents residing there. Three of the families were Pinders, who later moved to Upper Matecumbe Key. The eastern part of Monroe County was like it is today, but the western boundary continued to extend to Fort Myers. Fort Myers became a formidable port itself and led in the formation of Lee County in 1887. Story has it that Monroe County would not rebuild its school house that had burned.
Second Seminole War
During the Second Seminole War (1835 - 1842) there were temporary military detachments scattered throughout Dade and Monroe County. The Army had sizable detachments at Fort Dallas (Miami), Key West and Charlotte Harbor (Fort Myers) . Wooden forts were established at Fort Center, Fort Deyaud, Fort Feais and Fort Poinsett. Most of the Army's direction came from Fort Brooke (Tampa) and the Navy's from Pensacola.
Many books have been written on the Second Seminole War. It was kind of a Viet Nam War, where the whites had overwhelming forces, but could not win. In 1842, they simply had to quit, that is negotiate an end. Regardless, the fear was real. Key West was isolated because of distance and size. For the Middle and Upper Keys, which were Dade County for all but the first month and a half, the Navy and Revenue Service were the most involved. The Navy and the Army were involved on Monroe County's mainland.
For the most part, many families fled to Key West. Some of those on Indian Key remained until the last. Key Vaca (Marathon) residents were continually threatened, petitioned for military protection but received little, however were never attacked directly. For decades, fears of Indian attack continued to plague the remainder of the Keys.
The new industry of sponging sprang up in the 1840. Presumably, it was the influx of Free Blacks who had gained their freedom from the Bahamas that made it a success. They were well adapted for this maritime life and Key West became a sponge center. Remember, the statement that Key West WAS Monroe County is never truer than in this period.
Statehood
On March 3, 1845, Florida became the 27th state with a population of 70,000. The following is Florida's population growth:
1825 = 13,554; 1830 = 34,730; 1838 = 48,831; 1840 = 54,477 and 1845 = 70,000.
Under Florida's first constitution, the governor appointed four county commissioners for four-year terms for Monroe County. To stagger the appointments every two years, two served for only two years. Appointed were Fielding Browne, James Ogden, Frederick Filer and Phillip Fontaine. In 1847 Browne and Ogden were replaced by Samuel Harvey and Michael Shamahen.
Building FortsFort Jefferson and Fort Taylor were started almost together, however due to its remote location, Fort Jefferson had different delays. At the time, and perhaps still is, Fort Jefferson was the largest brick fortification the US had. Over 44 million bricks were used for its construction and it spread over 16 acres. 109 water cisterns were built for about 1,500,000 gallons of water. 'Fort Jeff' is about 70 miles west of Key West.
Also like Fort Taylor, Fort Jeff was not completed in time for the Civil War. It was garrisoned in 1861 and remained in Union hands, but it appears not to have been as useful as Fort Taylor was. The story goes that about the only encounter it had was when a Confederate ship entered the harbor and demanded the fort's surrender. The Fort's commander, Major Arnold, replied to the Confederate messenger, "Tell your Captain I will blow his ship out of the water if he is not gone away from here in ten minutes." The bluff worked and Fort Jeff never fired a gun in action during the war. The debate continues as to the effect had it fallen to the Confederates and Fort Taylor remained with the Union.
The fort is probably better known as a Civil War prison where Dr. Samuel Mudd was incarcerated following his conviction as a party to the assassination of President Lincoln. John Wilkes Booth broke his leg jumping off the stage after shooting the president on April 14, 1865. Dr. Mudd treated the wounded actor, but maintained he was not involved in the conspiracy.
Dr. Mudd was sentenced to life at a military trial on June 30 and sent to Fort Jeff in 1865. President Andrew Johnson pardoned Dr. Mudd in 1869. An inscription over Dr. Mudd's cell reads, "Abandon all hope ye who enter here."
When war with Spain loomed in 1898, the Army turned over control of Fort Jeff to the Navy for a coaling station. The Spanish American War was short and the coaling operations ceased in 1901. After damage from the hurricane of 1906, the fort was abandoned.
Incidentally, the World War-I veterans who died in the 1935 hurricane in the Upper Keys were originally scheduled to work at Fort Jeff. One reason for their diversion to build ferry replacement bridges in the Upper Keys was that negotiations with the Navy for a National Park was slow in accomplishment. Fort Jefferson is a national monument in the Dry Tortugas National Park.
Fort Zachary Taylor is discussed also on the Key West web page. The fort was built some 1,200 feet offshore as an island. A complex foundation was built and the walls rose some 50 feet above the water. A drawbridge connected the fort to the mainland. Forty-water cisterns were built to store 750,000 gallons of potable water. As with Fort Jeff, many of the master masons were from Ireland and Germany. The high vaulted ceilings and complex arches required master skills.
The Great Hurricane of 1846 wreaked havoc from Key West to Indian Key. Both lighthouses at Key West were destroyed and the city's structures badly damaged. The newly started fort was particularly set back from the hurricane, then it was yellow fever's turn. The 'fevers' were a yearly threat during each summer. Years 1854, 1856 and 1862 were unusually bad hurricane years. In 1847, a new industry lurched into action - sponges. Already established from the Bahamas, New York welcomed the high quality sponges gathered from the waters of the Keys.
The War Between the States
At the outset of the Civil War, Florida was a confederate state and it was expected that Monroe County would be also. The Union had a considerable force in Key West because of the construction of Fort Taylor under Captain E. B. Hunt (Corps of Engineers). Key West was taken easily on the night of January 13, 1861, when Captain James Brannan took possession of the city while it slept. Key West played a major role during the war because of it strategic location.
Key West became the center for the Union's Gulf and East Gulf blockading forces. Many ships from many nations were seized and brought into Key West's harbor for disposition. Records reflect about 300 Confederate blockade runners seized and held. The two Martello Towers were always planned to thwart a land attack and work finally began. Key West was also the logistic support center for Fort Jefferson. Fort Taylor is now a state park.
Key West's population increased 400 percent in the 1840s decade. In addition to wrecking and sponging, the construction of Fort Taylor (1845) and Fort Jefferson (1846) had began. Considerable numbers of slaves were brought in to be 'rented' for construction of the forts. During the 1840s decade the slave population increased 653 percent. Not to be forgotten is that the cigar industry was in its infancy.
The Civil War was largely responsible for Key West becoming Florida's largest city. Key West profited while other southern cities were being reduced to rubble. Jacksonville was its closest competitor and while it was not destroyed, it was set back considerably. In the 1890s it had to incorporate almost all of Duval County to edge Key West out in population count.
I cannot say for certain if Monroe County existed in more than name only during the Civil War. Florida seceded from the US on January 11, 1861. On January 13, 1861, the Union seized Key West which was also the seat of County Government. Florida joined the Confederate States on January 18, 1861. Maj. French of the Fifth US Artillery took command for the Union on April 6, 1861. The Union suspended all Florida officers on May 17, 1861. Maj. French refused to allow any judicial of magisterial functions except those of the Union.
In view of the above, we might wonder if there was a functional Monroe County from 1861 to 65, and even for a few years later. The answer I believe is yes for Key West, but will question how functional for all the county. County government was necessary if for no other purpose than to process property deeds. The clerk of the court, Mr. Crusoe, a southerner, left, but Thomas Boynton the US district attorney could have performed his duties. Records are few describing county functions from 1861 through 1865.
Monroe County Grows in Size
The same year of 1866 marked Monroe County becoming the link to connect Cuba with the world. In 1858 the trans-Atlantic submarine cable went operational and a second cable laid that year. Cuba was linked to the US via a submarine cable to Key West then to Punta Rassa near Fort Myers. Both repeater stations were in Monroe County. Punta Rassa later became Lee County in 1887 establishing Monroe County's present boundaries.
It is generally believed that the presence of the "fevers" as well as the heat and mosquitoes reduced the summer population of the Keys. Of the three only heat and mosquitoes remain and they are controllable by aerial spraying and air conditioning. An example of the "fevers", in by September of the summer of 1887, the Marine Hospital (1845 - 1943) reported that there had been 282 cases of yellow fever in Key West and 30 had died. In 1899, there were 1320 cases with 68 deaths.
Of the "fevers" yellow, dengue, typhoid and malaria, malaria was the lesser. Dengue and typhoid were not as deadly. In 1899, there were 6,999 cases of dengue reported and no deaths. Supposedly they all began from three mariners living in an old cigar factory. I am probably incorrect but the last case of yellow fever in the state was 1905. Polio was the next serious threat in Key West probably due to improved drinking water treatment in the 1930s and the resulting loss of passed on immunity. The 1940s and 50s were bad years for polio outbreaks in Key West.
Farming
The market for pineapples was in the northern industrial states and ships began changing from wrecking to transporting pineapples and other Key's products. It was not just that simple as pineapples had to be at the market site within seven to ten days after harvesting. In the early days, unfavorable wind conditions spoiled many a shipment of pineapples.
Using the decade of the 1880s as a reference, we find the Keys north of Key West were sparsely populated. To summarize the inhabitants of these Keys proceeding from south to north:
- Charcoal makers inhabited the Lower Keys. (see Big Pine Key) The Cates, Sands and Knowles homesteaded Big Pine and No Name Keys.
- The huge Pent family populated the Key Vaca area.
- The Pinders and Russells were well entrenched at Upper Matecumbe Key.
- The Saunders and Roberts occupied Windley Key.
- The Alburys, Adams, Pinders, and Knowles were on Plantation Key.
- The Alburys, Lowes, Johnsons and Tedders were on south Key Largo.
- The Alburys, Bakers, Bethels, Pinders, and Currys were in the Rock Harbor area.
- The Pinders and Johnsons were in the Newport (Key Largo) area.
- The Bells, Lowes, Russells and Pinders were in the North Key Largo area.
In the Upper Keys, Benjamin Baker and Menendez Johnson established separate post offices on Key Largo, but they were short lived. Postal responsibility was passed onto Planter on south Key Largo. Sam Johnson and his family settled at Planter on the south end of Key Largo around 1880. The son, John Wesley, in 1891 opened a post office. With the only post office between Key West and the mainland, Planter became a focal point. It developed into a small community with a post office, store, school, church and five farms. Small settlements like Basin Hills, High Mangrove Point and Newport rose and fell.
Government records reveal homesteads being recorded throughout the Keys in the 1880s. The unincorporated Keys were officially surveyed in the early 1870s and the Homestead Act of 1866 was finally applicable throughout the Keys. For a five dollar filing fee, up to 160 acres were available for proving of a claim. For an additional $1.25 per acre patented title could be had in six months. A trivia item for Monroe County is in July 1901 rural mail delivery began in Key West.
Back to the Mainland of Monroe County
The entire southwest part of Florida, Fort Myers southward, was used for fishing since its discovery. Cubans, Indians and Americans fished and traded more or less in harmony until political differences disrupted the rapport. The Second Seminole War was probably the largest disruption.
Fort Myers as a fort or community did not exist until 1850. During the Seminole War it was Fort Dulany and was completely destroyed by a hurricane on October 19, 1841. It was rebuilt on higher ground up river. General David Twiggs ordered the fort rebuilt in 1850 and his daughter was married to Florida chief quartermaster, Colonel Abraham Myers. As an honor to both of them the fort was named Fort Myers.
With a population of 349, Fort Myers voted to incorporate in August 1885, becoming Monroe County's second city. However, its only school, the Fort Myers' Academy, burned in May 1886. The story goes that Monroe County was miffed at them for letting the $1,000 school burn and put off building another one until later. The next year the big cattlemen of the area pushed through a bill creating Lee County on May 2, 1887. It included all of today's Lee, Collier and Hendry Counties.
One of the few incidences of a "tree claim" in Florida could have occurred at Cape Sable in the 1884 claims for the (James A.) Waddell Coconut Grove. This 1,120 acre grove of trees dominated the water front for years to come. The Tree Claim Act of 1872 was meant to entice tree planting in the treeless Great Plains of America. James Waddell became mayor of Key West in 1895-97.
Chokoloskee was settled in the 1870s. In 1891, Charles McKinney opened a post office named 'Comfort' at Chokoloskee. At the time it was incorrectly listed under Monroe County as it was really a few hundred feet in Lee County. Remember Lee County was created in 1887.
Also incorrectly listed as Monroe County was the Everglade Post office opened by George Storter on July 19, 1893. Earlier Storter had bought the land that is now Everglades City in 1889 from William Smith Allen who was from Key West and who had settled there in 1870 to grow vegetables. Another 1893 post office that was actually in Monroe County was at Flamingo. The postmaster was Howell Low named on December 30, 1893. Duncan Brady, a new Englander bringing pineapple slips to Upper Matecumbe Key, sailed westward and was one of the first Flamingo settlers in 1892. Cape Sable followed with a post office on February 23, 1904.
Flamingo reached its peak of prosperity a few years later. By 1900 about 50 families lived there and there was a Monroe County school. Other popular family names were the Irwins, Roberts, and Douthits. Farming, charcoal making and plume hunting were the area's economy. But it was plume hunting that brought the people and its name Flamingo. Audubon warden Guy Bradley (not to be confused with Brady above) was murdered in 1905 by outlaw plume hunters. Public rage over the murder and the pluming practice created the 1910 Plumage Bill which outlawed the practice. By 1910 only three houses remained occupied. Flamingo also supported commercial gill net fishing until it also was outlawed. When the Everglades National Park was created in 1947, Flamingo became a part of the park.
World War II
Time moved on and as World War II loomed on the horizon, the Navy began a build up in preparation. When war did happen, the naval operations envisioned for Key West necessitated corresponding logistic support. This was the precursor of modernizing the Keys. Nothing much changed for mainland Monroe County. A modern military force required sufficient drinking water, electricity and an efficient highway, and that is what all the Keys received. These three almost necessities for modern families laid the framework for growth in the Lower, Middle and Upper Keys.
Of course, the war had to end and families get back together, but that just took time. Within a decade there were high schools in Marathon and Plantation; new church groups never in the Keys before had meeting places. Large developments like Ocean Reef, Layton and Key Colony Beach crept in.
Digressing back to the WW-II period, major progress was made for all of Monroe County in 1942 with the water pipeline and a rural electric system. The Overseas Highway was improved and shortened by 17 miles along today's route. This action by-passed the ocean route through Pirates Cove in the Lower Keys and the wooden Card Sound bridge in the Upper Keys. In other words, the vehicle route was more or less as U.S. 1 is today. It can safely be stated that 90% of the permanent population resided in Key West, but this was about to change. I will stick out my neck and say that the main thrust were retirees, but many were retirees that did not remain retired.
When established in 1823 Monroe County occupied most of the southern Florida peninsula; it has since been reduced to the Florida Keys and portions of Everglades National Park. It was founded during the "Era of Good Feelings" andnamed for President James Monroe. The county seat is Key West, once the largest city in Florida despite its isolation. Although it is the westernmost of the inhabited keys, the name is actually a corruption of cayo hueso, "bone island." Early Spanish explorers reported a number of human skeletons on the island, possibly left after a battle between tribes.
Monroe County residents originally were required to travel all the way to St. Augustine for court sessions. The Monroe County historic courthouse was built in 1890 by William Kerr, who was also responsible for such other memorable buildings as the Convent of Mary Immaculate (later demolished), First Methodist Church, post office, and city hall. The hundred-foot clock tower, with an observation deck atop, was for a long time the highest point on the island.